Protection Against Freezing Temperatures in Open Cockpits
Early aviation wasn’t just daring—it was downright dangerous, especially when it came to the cold. In the era before enclosed cockpits, pilots were exposed to the full wrath of high-altitude weather. Temperatures could plummet to -12°F or lower, particularly during World War I and the interwar years, when open-cockpit biplanes were the norm . At those altitudes, frostbite wasn’t just a risk—it was a near certainty without the right gear.
That’s where leather jackets came in. Issued by the U.S. Army Aviation Clothing Board as early as 1917, these jackets—often made from horsehide or sheepskin—provided critical insulation and wind resistance. The thick material acted as a natural barrier against the biting wind, while linings of wool or fur helped retain body heat. Over time, designs evolved into standardized models like the A-1 and A-2 jackets, which combined functionality with a snug fit to minimize air intrusion.
Scarves, typically made of silk, played an equally vital role. Not just for style, they protected pilots’ necks from chafing against stiff leather collars and served as makeshift lens cloths for wiping goggles mid-flight. The white color wasn’t arbitrary—it helped pilots see which side was clean enough to clear away oil, smoke, or condensation.
In short, the aviator’s wardrobe was a matter of survival. Before climate-controlled cockpits became standard, pilots relied on these garments as their first line of defense against the cruel, high-altitude cold. Far from being fashion statements, leather jackets and silk scarves were essential tools of the trade—pragmatic, protective, and born out of necessity.
Leather’s Durability and Wind Resistance at High Speeds
Early aviation wasn’t just daring—it was downright brutal. Before the advent of pressurized cabins and enclosed cockpits, pilots were essentially flying tin kites through the upper atmosphere, with nothing but a thin layer of clothing between them and 100-mile-per-hour winds. So why did they wear leather jackets? Because leather didn’t just look rugged—it was rugged. Introduced officially by the U.S. Army Aviation Clothing Board in 1917, the first military flight jackets were designed not for style, but survival. Leather offered an unmatched combination of wind resistance and durability that cotton or wool simply couldn’t rival.
The dense grain of cowhide or horsehide leather blocked freezing gales at high altitudes, preventing windburn and hypothermia. Its natural toughness also protected pilots from abrasions caused by cockpit hardware or emergency egress. The jackets’ structure—often reinforced with knit cuffs and waistbands—helped retain body heat while still allowing mobility. And because early aircraft vibrated violently and exposed pilots to sharp metal edges and oil-slicked surfaces, leather’s resistance to tearing made it a practical choice in life-or-death situations. As planes got faster between the world wars, jackets like the A-1 (1927) and its successor, the A-2, became standard issue for U.S. airmen, not only for their warmth but for their aerodynamic resilience.
Even today, the legacy of the leather flight jacket endures—not just as a fashion icon, but as a testament to the material’s battlefield-tested utility.
Scarves to Prevent Neck Chafing During Constant Head Movement
In the golden age of open-cockpit aviation, when early pilots soared through icy altitudes in fragile biplanes, silk scarves weren’t just dashing accessories—they were vital gear designed to protect the neck under grueling conditions. Constant head-turning was essential for pilots during aerial combat and navigation, as situational awareness often meant the difference between life and death. But that constant motion, combined with the stiff leather collars of flight jackets like the U.S. Army Air Service’s regulation gear during World War I, created a perfect storm for neck chafing and raw skin.
Silk emerged as the material of choice not for its elegance, but for its extraordinary functionality. Lightweight and smooth, it glided against the skin with minimal friction, creating a buffer between the pilot’s neck and the abrasive leather that encased it. According to Rama World’s detailed history of the flight scarf, the classic white silk versions also served another purpose: they allowed pilots to easily identify clean sections to wipe away oil, smoke, or frost from their goggles mid-flight.
Even as aviation technology progressed and cockpits became enclosed, the silk scarf remained a mainstay—its comfort and practicality too valuable to discard. During the Vietnam era, the tradition evolved, with scarves becoming personalized and mass-produced in varied designs, though the white silk original retained its iconic status. In essence, the pilot’s scarf was not born of vanity, but of necessity—an elegant solution to a very real, very uncomfortable problem in aviation’s earliest and most daring days.
The Practicality of Warmth and Safety Over Style
Leather jackets and silk scarves might look iconic now—think Tom Cruise in Top Gun or vintage photos of daredevil pilots—but in the early decades of aviation, they were less about swagger and more about survival. The open-cockpit biplanes of World War I and early World War II subjected pilots to brutal high-altitude conditions, where temperatures could plummet well below freezing. In this unforgiving environment, practicality wasn’t optional—it was the difference between flying and freezing.
Leather, with its dense grain and natural insulation, wasn’t just durable; it was lifesaving. The U.S. Army Aviation Clothing Board introduced the first official flight jacket in 1917, designed specifically to shield pilots from wind chill and hypothermia at altitudes above 10,000 feet. As aircraft evolved, so did the jackets: the A-1 model in 1927 added knit cuffs and waistbands to trap heat, while the iconic A-2 and later B-15 models introduced zippers and sheepskin linings for added protection—features that prioritized function over flair.
Scarves, too, were more than just a stylish accessory. Silk prevented neck chafing caused by constant head-turning in combat, and the white color served a practical role—it showed clean spots for wiping oil or condensation off goggles mid-flight. In a cockpit where visibility could mean life or death, that simple design choice mattered.
So no, early pilots weren’t dressing to impress. They were dressing to survive.
How the Iconic Look Became a Symbol of Aviation Heroism
The leather jacket and scarf ensemble wasn’t just about surviving the skies—it became a cultural shorthand for courage, grit, and the golden age of flight. What began as pure practicality in the biting cold of open cockpits quickly evolved into something far more symbolic. By the time World War I pilots suited up in their government-issued flying outfits—like those now displayed at the National Museum of the U.S. Air Force in Dayton, Ohio—they were already being cast as modern knights of the air, battling not on horseback but in fragile biplanes with no cabins to shield them from the elements.
During the interwar period, this look was codified in the U.S. Army’s Type A-1 leather jacket in 1927, which later evolved into the iconic A-2 and B-15 models worn by WWII airmen. These jackets, often paired with white silk scarves that prevented neck chafing and served as makeshift goggles wipes, were more than gear—they were a badge of honor. Hollywood took notice. Humphrey Bogart in Tokyo Joe (1949), James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause (1955), and later Tom Cruise in Top Gun (1986) all wore versions of these jackets, reinforcing their association with stoic masculinity and fearless rebellion.
Even as aviation technology advanced and pressurized cockpits replaced open-air designs, pilots continued to wear the jackets and scarves—less out of necessity and more out of reverence. The garments became a uniform of identity, linking generations of aviators in a shared visual legacy. Today, whether seen on a motorcyclist, a runway model, or a film protagonist, the look still whispers of high-altitude danger and high-stakes heroism.
